|
Goals:
Create high quality blue Phalaenopsis with better form, vigor
and saturation/hue than currently available hybrids. The end goal
is to create large/standard solid blue phals and multiflora solid
blue phals; both with great form, color and vigor. Both dark blues
and light/baby blues are part of these goals.
- produce
high quality breeding stock that cna contribute to blue phalaenopsis
breeding long term
- produce
saturated blue cultivars that rival the quality of currently
available stock
- produce
a multiflora line of blue phalaenopsis suitable for pot plant
culture with improved vigor and flower count
- produce
a standard form blue phalaenopsis with great color and form
- produce
a new range of colors including baby/sky blue, navy blue, indigo,
violet and purple
Breeding
Lines:
This is of course where it gets fun. I have five bigger picture
areas of focus at this point. If I'm lucky I'm getting 10 of these
crosses to take per year. So none of this is going particularly
fast, but it should be noted that I have been able to complete
15 of planned coerulea Phalaenopsis crosses to date. Some of them
are growing out in the greenhouse and some are currently in the
lab.
1.)
Line breed existing coerulea phal species and create polyploid
cultivars during the process.
a.)
Phal. equestris var cyanochilus line breeding - currently in
progress.
b.) Phal. violacea var indigo line breeding - the first crosses
will hopefully take this year. Assuming they are successful,
I'll start treating protocroms with colchicine. (The updated
to this is we have two crosses in the lab at the replate stage
using violacea 'Sapphire's Navy'. Both crosses were also treated
with colchicine.)
c.) Line breed other coerulea phal species that may happen to
come up.
d.) Dts. pulcherrima var coerulea - other growers are currently
focusing on this. I'm not planning on doing an line breeding
unless I just end up with two really good ones and can't help
myself!
2.)
Coerulea on Coerulea Crosses - Utilize existing coerulea
phal hybrids where possible to breed for improved color and shape.
A couple of these types of crosses that are in the works are:
a.)
Dtps. Summer Rose (Kenneth Schubert x equestris) I've got this
growing out in the greenhouse and still in the lab using the
equestris var cyanochilus.
b.) Phal. Equalacea (equestris x violacea) I've got two of these
in the lab with both forms of coerulea violacea on the equestris
var cyanochilus.
c.) Dtps. Purple Martin (Kenneth Schubert x violacea) As previously
mentioned I have this in the lab made with the indigo violacea
and cyanochilus
d.) Dtps Kenneth Schubert (violacea x pulcherrima) This will
need to be remade in the near future using the indigo violacea.
I tried to get it to take several times last year and had no
luck. I'll keep trying.
e.) Dtps. Purple Gem (pulcherrima x equestris) I've been trying
to get this take with the cyanochilus for several years now.
One of these days I'll get this one done.
f.) Dtps Siam Treasure crosses. I've been trying these for a
few years. I have one seedling in flask of Siam Treasure x equestris
var cyanochilus. Other than that I've had zero luck with this
direction. If you've seen my Siam Treasure 'Blue' in its full
glory, then you know why I keep trying to get this thing to
breed.
3.)
Leverage other phal species that appear to carry color well -
I've done a great deal of research on this and have been trying
to follow SE Asia breeding trends as well. Phal. micholitzii shows
up in their blue breeding very frequently. Phal. tetraspis to
a lesser amount. I've had a hunch for a very long time that tetrapsis
would carry blue well. This was partially confirmed when Tzu Chiang
Lilac was created. I've also seen some Jennifer Palermo's that
were almost blue. I've got a Jennifer Palermo in flask now using
a regular coerulea violacea. I'm trying to do that cross with
indigo violacea.
I
have been trying to get crosses in place along this line since
2000. I now have a number of different crosses both in the lab
and now in the greenhouse using different blues and tetraspis.
The first of those should start blooming next year. I'm also planning
on using Tzu Chiang Tetralitz as it does have better shape than
tetraspis alone and has been proven to carry blue. Phal Penang
Jewel (Penang Violacea x violacea) also appears to carry blue
and I'm hoping to remake that cross using an indigo violacea in
the near future that can then be used in further breeding. The
information I've been able to get so far is that the current coerulea
crosses using Pengang Jewel, were made with an alba form.
Side
Note: Tying into section 5 below, we were discussing this in
theHybridizersForum.com and another breeder reminded me that
he is trying to get some blue genetics into the crosses as early
as possible. Thinking that direction it's very likely that I
will take these crosses, put them on a white like aphrodite
and then go back to blue. With this approach I will accomplish
basically the same goal as what is outlined in section 5, but
I won't have to take the time to make all of those crosses.
Jennifer Palermo and Penang Violacea made with an indigo violacea
would be used.
I
have two reasons for doing all of this. I believe tetrapsis will
impart additional vigor and a tendency to bloom through out the
year. It may just result in light blues. But I'm not completely
against that either as long as they are more vigorous than the
current coerulea phals. Also micholitzii's short stems just might
balance out pulcherrima's long stems and it does tend to contribute
better shape.
4.)
Leverage 2N and 4N whites to improve shape - this is
going to be a very long term work in progress.
a.)
Coerulea lines need to be converted to 4N in order to do good
4N breeding. Many of us have already started on this.
b.) 4N crosses with standard whites will be done once confirmed
tetraploids are in place.
c.) Blue on existing 2N Whites- I'm current trying to get crosses
to take on aphrodite along with a few other folks. Aphrodite
x violacea is the main target. I currently have aphrodite x
equestris var cyanochilus 'ABC' growing in the greenhouse/.
I doubt if these will be blue, but will be interesting to see
what happens.
d.) Custom whites for blue breeding - see next section.
5.)
Create and use custom whites for blue breeding - The
last resort approach. Again this goes back to that gut instinct.
This is not based on science and is really just a theory/personal
opinion. So don't take any of this as the truth, its just one
thing rolling through my head and so I'm working on this direction
as one part of my breeding program.
I have this feeling that a regular satin white like aphrodite
is not going to carry blue as well as hoped. I believe other species
can be introduced to increase our chances some. So I'm remaking
some white crosses that are not currently available in order to
create my own line of whites tailored to later breed with blues.
If the straight blue on aphrodite crosses work, then this is a
total waste of time. If they don't work or don't work as well
as planned, then this could be worth the extra effort. So as I've
said before, I prefer to hedge my bets and try a few things that
go against current schools of thought.
The
following crosses are planned:
a.)
Phal. Formosa Star (aphrodite x micholitzii)
b.) Phal. Snow Twinkle (aphrodite x tetraspis)
c.) Phal. (aphrodite x Tzu Chiang Tetralitz)
d.) Phal. (Formosa Star x Snow Twinkle)
In
every case, aphrodite will be used as the pod parent to keep as
much of its shape as possible. I've found photos of some of these
crosses both ways and the crosses with aphrodite as the pod parent
are superior in shape to the reverse cross. Once available, these
whites would then be used with the best current blue phals.
Please
keep in mind that all of this changes frequently. As new information
is available, I'm am constantly adjusting my breeding program.
So this information represents a snap shot of what I'm up to at
this moment. During the time that I originally wrote this and
now, I'm having second thoughts about even needing to deal with
the section 5 part of this. So as I said, this is a living and
constantly changing plan.
Keep
and eye out for more updates and new crosses. As we start to bloom
some of the current crosses out, we will start to release more
of these. In many cases we don't get lots of seedlings and want
to bloom some of them out to make sure we are able to select good
cultivars for future breeding.
|